
| Food is a special part of my family's traditions. For example, chicken mole makes me think of weddings, where it's served a lot. Menudo goes with the day after New Year's Eve, because it's a great hangover remedy. But I can't help but connect Christmas with tamales. My best memories of the holidays are not of a favorite present. What I remember most is my mother and father around our kitchen table making tamales. When they cooked, our house smelled spicy and warm. I remember my father carefully smoothing the golden masa, (cornmeal) over the ojas (corn husks) while my mother added dollops of red pork meat in the center. Then, they'd fold each one and place them into a big pot to steam. Each tamale was like a gift of tradition to our family. The work was hard -- my parents would start early in the morning mixing the chili and cooking the meat. But they talked and smiled as if it was no work at all. Nothing under the Christmas tree seemed to compare with the moment when my father announced that the tamales were ready. Soon, my cousins, uncles and aunts stopped by to join in and our house was make even warmer by the love of family. When I made my first batch of tamales, I was married and in another state, so I called my father and mother long distance every 15 minutes or so to make sure I was following their directions, which were short on exact measurements but long on loving advice. My first batch was too salty. My walls were covered with masa. The next time I made the tamales, they were huge, which was okay with me since I mostly loved the masa part, anyway. But the next time, my tamales turned out great -- if I do say so myself. I've taught my daughters to make them so they will have their own memories to pass on to their own families. Tamales go back to Aztec times and were used in wedding ceremonies. In the days of Christianity, some say the wrapping of the oja around the masa and meat symbolizes the wrapping of the baby Jesus in swaddling clothes and of the good things God has provided from the earth. Those stories only add to the richness of tamales. To me, however, tamales are Christmas. They will always taste of home and family. Be warned. Tamales take all day to make, but are well worth it. And because this is a family recipe, you may have to experiment. Good luck. TAMALES 5 pounds Juanita's tamale mix 1 pound can Crisco vegetable shortening 2 tablespoons baking powder 3 pounds pork butt or shoulder 1 package corn husks New Mexico red chili Garlic cloves Salt Boil pork until flaky, then shred it into pieces. Save the caldo, or broth. Add some of the caldo to the beef, along with red chili, a little salt and smashed garlic cloves or garlic powder. Set aside on stove to keep warm, but don't boil. Meanwhile, soak the corn husks in hot water. For the masa: Melt Crisco and add to dry mix, along with the baking powder and some of the broth and salt to taste. Mix until fluffy. Add some of the masa to the chili mixture to thicken. Spread a thin layer of masa on one side of the husk. (More if you like lots of masa, but these will take longer to cook). Add chili mixture and fold over sides of husks and fold at one end. Place in a large pot with the folded bottom down. At the bottom of the pot, place a coil of aluminum foil and water, but not enough water that it covers the tamales. Place tamales to top of pan and cover with a clean white dish towel. Cover and boil about 1 1/2 hours or until the masa is cooked. For sweet tamales, set aside some of the masa and cut back on the salt but still use the Crisco. Boil cinnamon (canella) sticks, sugar and raisins (you can also crushed pineapple. Add the cinnamon water, sugar and raisins. Add a couple of dollops to a corn husk and fold. Cook separately from the spicy ones. These won't take as long to cook and they are great for breakfast. |